Monday 25 July 2016

Townsville to Cairns: this is how you roadtrip

Only in Australia would there be a highway called Bruce. It's a bit like the Route 66 of Australia. Bruce and ourselves are pretty well acquainted now, and we followed him again on this journey. Our next show was in Cairns, and we had 7 days to get there from Townville. The journey can be done in about 5 hours, but why rush when you've got the rainforest on one side, and the great barrier reef on the other. This stretch of coastline is called the Cassowary Coast, named after the Cassowary, a large flightless bird that emerges from the rainforest and can often be seen wandering by the roadside. We saw one on our journey, but I'll be looking out for them on the way back down. There were many more stops we could have made on the way, but here I highlight our best ones, and some of my favourite parts of the trip so far:-

The Frosty Mango

Australia, being a big country, loves to celebrate every day objects by enlarging them into big statues. So when at the side of the highway we see a giant mango (oddly enough, the second one we've come across so far) of course we decide to stop. Next to the giant mango is a gift shop that sells home made jams, smoothies, chutneys, ice cream, etc made from the mango (and other fruits) farm produce, as well as the usual souvenirs – keyrings, mugs, and mango shaped stuffed toys. At this stop, we took a look at the brochures for activities in the region, and found a handy booklet highlighting every must-do stop on the exact drive we were pursuing. By this stage we'd already gone past some of them, but nevertheless Queensland did not let us down.

Wallaman Falls
Tumbling over a cliff edge at 268m makes Wallaman Falls the tallest single spot waterfall in Australia. Upon first arriving, you have a great view from the top of the falls, and it looks impressive. You can see the whole gorge that the stream below the falls runs into, and witness the immense power of the water as its spray mists up the area around the bottom. From here, there's a 2km path that goes down to the bottom of the falls so we thought “2km walk? Easy, why not?”, but when I see the sign at the top that recommends this walk for those of a medium fitness, I'm immediately regretting all those McDonalds and lazy days. The half hour journey down rocky steps and steep rainforest slopes wasn't too bad. My knees were giving out by the end, but at least I had awesome views of the rainforest and could watch the spectacular bright blue Ulysses butterflies that frequents this region. The falls were even more impressive from the bottom. When the sun came out, an amazing double rainbow was cast around the mist as the falls met the stream at the bottom, and it really puts you into perspective about how small you are – a single person in this world of brobdingnagian proportions. To reiterate that idea, I was reminded that what goes down must come up (well it does in this case). And my less-than-medium fitness was definitely challenged on the climb back up. Upon almost reaching the top, we passed a group of young tourists just embarking on their journey and like me, wondering what limit their body will be stretched to. We each gave a polite “hello” as we went past, after which (and not yet out of earshot) one lad said to his mate “why does everyone we pass look so f***ing depressed”. They heard our laugh at this comment, and I think then they knew what they were in for.

Murray Falls
Spectacular – yes. But fun – hell yeah! Murray falls has a nice (short, this time) walk to view the main falls, but also allows for swimming in the gorge upstream where the currents flow but aren't so dangerous. The water was clear and a nice temperature. The rocks are smooth through a mixture of water erosion and gooey algae, and make for awesome waterslides. There are rope swings which of course Joe and I couldn't help but launch ourselves from into the water. We had 2 days of fun here. We needed to come back for the second day because the GoPro wasn't charged and ready for such frolicking the first time round.

Tully
The small town of Tully is one of the wettest towns in Australia. They celebrate this with a statue of a giant Wellington boot (Gumboot, as Aussie's call it) reaching 7.9m high to mark the record breaking rainfall in 1950. Given the abundance of rain, it's gorge is also one of the best places in the country for white water rafting.

Mission Beach
We then headed to mission beach to spend the night. There are 3 villages along this stretch of coastal road, and though smaller than I imagined, they are still teeming with life. The beach is awesome, and you can even go skydiving straight onto the beach here. We didn't do this... maybe next time.

Paronella Park
Paronella Park tells the story of José Paronella, a spanish pastry baker who dreamed of having a life outside of baked goods, and so moved to Australia to work until he had saved enough to buy a large spot of land in the rainforest. His land conveniently had a waterfall within it, and he added to this picturesque scene a castle, lovely gardens and ballroom that he could open for public use. Now the park has been sold to private owners who continue to tell José's stories so it can be remembered for generations.

Mamu Tropical Skywalk
Having now seen parts of the rainforest by walking through it and gazing up at the trees, walking above the canopy was something altogether more exciting. The Mamu Skywalk offers this opportunity with their walkway built amongst the trees, reaching a height of 37 metres. It teaches a lot about rainforest life and gives you the chance to be in it for yourself.

South Johnstone
We went through South Johnstone and took pictures. Purely for the fact that it's my future surname.



Josephine falls
More waterfall chasing. On arrival, there were already tourists launching themselves down the 8m high smooth rocks into the river below. As fun as it looked, on this particularly wet day I was a little hesitant to try for myself, but enjoyed watching Joe slide down into the cool pools at the bottom.

Cairns
After a few packed days we reached our destination. Surrounded by mountains, rainforest and sea, Cairns sees millions of tourists visit each year for trips to the great barrier reef and other surrounding areas. Of course, we had to take a trip out while we were here. And let's just say I found out what was so 'great' about it.

Thursday 14 July 2016

Townsville - shows, cars and rock music

10 days is the longest we've stayed in one location since Hervey Bay, and Townsville offered us some great opportunities even in the short time we were here. North Queensland towns are currently enjoying their annual shows at the weekend, which for us means 2 or 3 days a week of easy cash in hand work. (Easy if you don't mind standing for 12+ hours of the day).

Aussie shows are awesome. The first one we attended was in Toowoomba with our au pair family (mentioned in a blog post that I have written but lazily not yet published and now published). A similar event in England is a fairground, but they are nowhere near as good. Think of one of those, but with less chavs and more animals, woodchopping, chainsaw championships, horse shows, boots, hats, jeans and large belt buckles – the only time Australians wear jeans. We found work on these shows selling corn dogs, or dagwood dogs as the Aussie's call them. I'd never tried this deep fried American delicacy before, my first experience was a pleasant one, but already I'm sick of them after living on them each weekend. Joe worked on a different van, selling slushies.

This weekend was a show of a different kind. The Townsville Castrol Edge 400 V8 Supercars Championship. I felt so swish walking through the front gates with my free 3 day pass that I almost forgot this doesn't quite get me into the VIP corporate area too (though I did get access to their toilet!). This is an annual event held in Townsville every year, with a lot going on, but the main event of course being the supercar racing. Not being a huge car fan myself (typical female, if it drives and it's a nice colour, it's good) this was the first event of it's kind I've attended. Though I worked for 2 of the 3 days, I had an awesome time and it was exciting to watch some madmen drive way too fast on roads way too small. My personal favourite were the stunt cars, which went flying (literally, at times!) round the track doing stunts and jumps that definitely aren't what cars were invented for, but it was fun to watch anyway. Being able to see into the garages as the races took place was particularly interesting. Not quite as quick with wheel changes as the Formula 1, but still pretty impressive.

Obviously this guy wasn't as interested as I was...


Choirboys lead guitarist
Saturday night saw celebrity guests to the show, Choirboys and Icehouse performing a concert, and though I'd never heard of these two Australian bands before, music is far more my forte than cars. Choirboys were on first to warm up the crowd. Formed in 1979, Choirboys are a hard rock band with a few hits in the 80s. Their sound is quite typical of the genre – fun and exciting and sounding to me like a mixture of ACDC and Thunder, two of my favourite bands. They performed a good cover song of fellow Aussies, ACDC, as well as a great range from their own library.

Icehouse came on and I didn't know what to expect. The lead singer looked like zombie character, Blaine, from TV series “izombie” and that
couldn't possibly be a good sign. Following Choirboys, my ears anticipated a style of hard rock – but once sound commenced, the first thing I noticed were the synthesisers. New wave? There are still new wave bands in 2016? Well that's fine by me. This band, formed in 1977, were like a blend of Ultravox, Gary Numan and Duran Duran, with much more pleasing vocals than that of Choirboys, and a good bit of rock to remind you that the whole band had talent and not just the guy on the synths. Oh, and it doesn't get much better than a guy in a cowboy hat playing saxophone. Oooh, tantalising!

After the show, we packed up camp and headed further north. Our next show is in Cairns, but we've got plenty more adventures to be had before then. My next post will be about our trip from Townsville to Cairns along the tropical rainforests and great barrier reef. As I write this, we're about halfway there and it's been such an awesome experience that I'm already excited to tell you about it!

Until then...