Friday 23 September 2016

Surprising holiday destinations: Isle of Arran, Scotland

The Isle of Arran is the 7th largest Scottish island. (Not to be confused with the Aran islands in Ireland, which is where Aran jumpers come from.) It is located on the south western side of Scotland, and if you're not too familiar with your UK geography,view the handy map below. So, why come here?
During my time on the Isle of Arran, I wasn't actually on holiday but rather working at the Lochranza Field Studies Centre. Lochranza is a village located on the north of the island. It has a population of around 200 people, and as soon as there is an event on, you will see everyone attending. It's about a half hour drive from the main ferry port of Brodick, which with a population of just over 600, makes it the main settlement on the island.

Days before my arrival in April 2013, the island had experienced the worst snow measured in 40 years with snow drifts of up to 20ft. Upon coming here, I asked myself "why would someone choose to visit the Isle of Arran on holiday?". Why would you go somewhere that's cold, uninhabited and most importantly - Scottish? During my time here that's exactly what I found out.


Wildlife

If you're an animal on the Isle of Arran, you have the life of riley. Spotting the island's wonderful creatures is easy because they have no fear of humans. Ok, so the sheep always ran away when I tried to hug them, but the deer graze the fields undisturbed and the occassional stag will even come up to your kitchen window for a cheeky snack. Seals and otters can regularly be seen in the water or lazing on the rocks. Owls, eagles and other birds are also a regular occurrence, making the island a haven for birdwatchers and wildlife photographers.


Whisky 
Lochranza is home to the Isle of Arran whisky distillery, where you can partake in a guided tour and whisky tasting while you learn the history and method of how it is made. Now it is the only distillery on the island, though Arran used to be home to about fifty distilleries - most of which operated illegally. If you can't get enough of the free tasters, head to the local pub hotel in Lochranza where the friendly landlord will share with you his own brew as well as offer advice and tastings on an entire wall full of different whiskies.

Hiking and walks

One of Arran's most persued activities (and most rescues needed) is hiking the vast landscapes and hills. Goat Fell marks the highest point on the island at 874m above sea level. It takes on average 5 hours to complete the climb, not including breaks. Not much of a hiker myself, but with a love of countryside walking, I would often take myself up a not-too-treacherous path in the hills in my spare time, watching for Golden Eagles and enjoying the stunning views.



Abseiling off a cliff edge
One of the activities that my place of work had to offer, especially for families who came to visit during the school holidays, was abseiling. But not off a man-made structure like everyone has done before. No. This was abseiling off a large rock face. It makes for a much more interesting day out, as the journey to get to the abseil point follows along streams and hills, and a more challenging climb than the normal steps of an abseil tower. A number of other fun outdoor activities can also be done here with stunning settings, giving an experience to remember.

 
Ceilidh dancing
Something definitely to be experienced as it is a LOT of fun. Ceilidhs are a Gaelic tradition from Scotland and Ireland involving folk music from a live band and country dancing. They are still practised in some areas (mostly rural), and Arran is one of them. During the summer months, a Ceilidh will be held at the Lochranza village hall every week for residents and visitors to experience a taste of Scottish tradition. So get ya kilts out, guys!

Photography

One thing Arran is not short of is sensational views and a landscape that changes with every few steps you take. Every evening (on a sunny day) my bedroom would fill up with the most vibrant orange colour I've ever seen, and I'd run down to the harbour to capture the most breathtaking sunsets. The picture above is the actual colour and has not been edited at all. There is always a photo opportunity over every hill and round every corner, and that's why I made it a rule never to go out without my camera.

Brodick
If I wasn't wandering round aimlessly looking at sheep, I usually went to the port town of Brodick on my day off. This is where you will arrive when you catch the ferry over to the island from Ardrossan Harbour, and it's pretty much the only place you can go to spend money on things that aren't alcoholic. Brodick's main street along the beachfront holds a few cafés, eateries, shops, and the best fish and chips I've ever had - and also the first place I experienced the delights of a deep fried spicy haggis. Best enjoyed with plenty of salt, sitting outside in the fresh (cold) sea air. Brodick is one of the few places you will find a supermarket (though it is only a small co-op) and also an ATM. Walking further north from town you can find a few quaint shops selling gifts, luxury soaps and homemade scottish ice cream, fudge and tablet. Mmmmm...



Kayaking and watersports
Brave the cold seas and take a kayak out on the loch. The Gulf Stream supposedly brings in slightly warmer waters (though I'd much prefer it 20 degrees or more). But kayaking, canoeing and other water based activities are all to be enjoyed in the island's waters. For the adrenaline seekers, white water rafting and kayaking is an option down some of the rivers and streams.

Golf
If golfing is your thing, there are 6 golf courses on Arran - which to me seems an astonishing amount for a place with such a small population. But nevertheless it gives golfers something to experience no matter what part of the island you're staying on. For those less enthusiastic about the sport, the courses offer a nice walk surrounded by beautiful scenery.

Here I've summed up just a few things there are to do on this absolutely outstanding part of the UK that most Brits will never see. I only got to see half the island, so I'm sure there is so much more that I didn't have the chance to experience. It really is worth a trip up there, and would even be a perfect stop on a UK roadtrip where you can also see what else Scotland has to offer. Hopefully I'll find out for myself some day and I'll let you know.


Tuesday 13 September 2016

Byron Bay - unlike any place I've been before!

After being on the road for so long and spending almost 4 months sleeping in a van, we decided to stop somewhere, settle, get jobs and stop worrying about money. And we ended up in Byron Bay.
View of Byron Bay beach on my way to the lighthouse


Byron Bay is a small, picturesque seaside town as seen in much of the rest of Australia, but this town is nothing like any town I've been before and quite frankly, I love it. People go round with no shoes on. Everyone can surf. Males, females, kids, grannies - everyone has long blonde dreadlocks. The people look like they're wearing pyjamas, but they're not. You can sit on the floor in the street like you did when you were 12, but no-one cares. Everything that can be painted with artwork, will be painted with artwork. Rainbows and curly patterns fill your view walking down the street. You can buy crystals, headdresses, beads, didgeridoos, there's also a colourfully painted "Happy Herb" shop which definitely doesn't look legal, but I think it is. You see things you don't see anywhere else. There's a guy in his sixties who descends on the street every few days with a hula hoop and banana and pineapple shaped maracas, giving it everything he's got. Initially I thought this was crazy, but then I realised that he has 10x more skill than me so I can't help but admire his passion.
And here he is... shaking it... with my fiancé...

Incase you're wondering where Byron Bay gets it's name; and whether it's roots are planted in romanticism, debauchery and flamboyancy; in 1770, the bay was the anchorage site for Lieutenant James Cook who named it after fellow sailor John Byron - the grandfather of English poet Lord Byron. The Cape Byron lighthouse built in 1901 marks the most easterly point of the Australian mainland.
Cape Byron lighthouse

Amongst Byron Bay residents include my 2 favourite Aussies - John Butler (from musical band John Butler Trio) and Chris Hemsworth (so gorgeous even my fiance admits to a mancrush). As of yet I haven't seen either of them. Butler now lives in WA and spends most of his time there (not that I'm stalking). Hemsworth is currently in Brisbane filming the new Thor movie, though I have seen him playing with pineapples in the promo video of the local smoothie bar.

Other than those two, Byron has approximately 5000 permanent residents. There is a big hippy
community, and a large number of backpackers stop here - especially in summer. It's a main attraction for "schoolies" as school finishes for the summer and the students all stampede to Byron to drink and start their vacation in style. I have this to look forward to in the next couple of months, as my manager always reminds me as I'm cleaning the rooms of the beachside motel.

The sign says it, it must be true
There are some great spots to eat in Byron, especially if you're vegan, vegetarian, organic, health freak, fruitarian, gluten free, lactose free, sugar free... and come to think of it, I'm not sure what they do
put in their food. All joking aside, Byron Bay does exceptionally well at accommodating these people, but also has some awesome restaurants and eateries along the beachside or further into town for those of us who aren't so picky. I'm happy to say there's no Mcdonalds or KFC in sight, and the only worldwide chain you'll find here is Subway - but then that's not all so bad is it? Since Joe now works in a Thai restaurant, I don't see a reason to turn down Thai curries every night. Though I can't wait for them to teach him the recipes! Munchies is a small family run restaurant that we've also found ourselves returning to. They serve a number of mouth watering pasta dishes, chef's specials, and the best schnitzel I've had so far!

The first whale I've ever seen!
There's so much to do in Byron, that I might write another blog post just on that subject, but to summarise - and so you can feel the excitement that I do - you can surf, kayak with dolphins, whale watch at the most easterly point of Australia, skydive, have ice cream at the lighthouse, watersports, laze on the beach, drink yourself silly, check out the markets, eat, sleep, and do it all again. A number of events and festivals occur throughout the year. The most notable being the Byron Bay Film Festival and the East Coast Blues & Roots Festival.
We also spotted dolphins swimming just off shore

So that's my home for the next few months. It's very hippy, and at first I thought I wouldn't fit into Byron Bay. I don't wear colourful patterned dresses or do yoga. But actually, there is no "fitting in" in Byron Bay, and there's no excluding. It is what it is, and you can be whoever or whatever you want, and that's awesome! Everyone is so laid back and friendly, they don't care who you are or where you're from but you'll be welcomed in anyway. If you want to know more about what it's like in Byron Bay but I haven't quite convinced you to come here, just watch The Inbetweeners 2 movie.
The Inbetweeners 2 - set in Byron Bay
Well that's it for now. If you've been here and loved it, send me your comments! Give me a like and share this post. Peace out.

Monday 5 September 2016

What's it really like staying in a hostel?

So I've told you what it's like living in a campervan, but what about living in a hostel? The first month of my trip was spent going from dorm room to dorm room and sleeping in a room with up to 10 different people each night. So what is it really like?


Privacy
This is a pretty big downside to staying in hostel rooms. They are designed to be a base for travellers who want to go out and explore, though of course with differing schedules, you can almost always be sure that someone will be in the room at any one time. You're living in a confined space with up to about 11 strangers. It's not a place to keep up your normal bad/awkward habits from when you're at home, you can't run around naked, or throw your smelly undies everywhere. But I can guarantee that at some point someone will have sex in your room while you're trying to sleep. Make sure it's you.



Security
Lockers or under-bed lock boxes are usually provided, and are a good idea to use to store your stuff. Make sure you bring your own padlocks or buy one from the hostel at some extortionate rate. Pretty much the whole world has access to your room, and with people coming and going so often, things can certainly go "missing". Keep your valuables safe, and don't presume everyone in there is friendly and innocent once you've been living with them for 2 days.

Party Pumper
Where's me jumper? I stayed in 2 different hostels in Melbourne. XBase is the one that the STA Travel package will send you to, and they have many locations throughout Australia. It was pretty much the epitomy of everything I hate and everything I was when I was 18. Having said that, it's an excellent place to go if you like to party, get drunk and meet new people who are also drunk. There were cheap drinks and different questionable events being held in the bar every night. Let's just say, bingo night wasn't suitable for granny - I'm sure poor old Agatha would be flabberghasted to see honourable young people humping on the floor every time the number 69 came up. We also stayed in Habitat HQ hostel down the road, and then I remembered that I don't really hate people that much. Habitat still had events on every night, but these were a lot more chilled out and enjoyable for the 22-going-on-40 year olds like me. Pub crawls, quiz night, free barbeque, live music - it's a nice place to come and meet fellow backpackers especially if you're travelling on your own.

Meeting new people
This is the upside to a hostel. You share a room with like minded people from all over the world who generally share a passion for travel. It's a great place to find travel buddies for your onwards journey, and in some cases life-long friends. Most people will be friendly, bubbly and excited, and it's always helpful when they've been the places you're going, and you can exchange tips and find out the best places to visit. Of course you get your fair share of weirdos too. We encountered the German guy that kept losing his job, the Swedish guy that puked all night, and the old racist Aussie woman who blamed the Germans when she was evicted from her room by the hostel management when she thought it was for permanent residency.

A plethora of smells
I don't know why sleeping people smell so bad but oh my goodness. At HabitatHQ, Joe and I worked as housekeepers to earn free nights, and each room had a different level of stench depending on who and how many were living in there. My room was fine thanks to the friendly couple that had been living in there for a month and liked to keep it in order. The evenings change to an overpowering mix of Lynx Africa, Rihanna Rogue Love, Impulse Musk, hairspray and toothpaste as people get ready to go out. Not as distasteful as ass and sweat, but still not great if you prefer breathing.

Prices and facilities
A hostel dorm room costs about $30-40 (£15-20) per person per night sharing with 5 other people or more. If sharing with less, it can sometimes be more expensive. A private room with double bed would cost around $60-80 (£30-40). So what do you get for that price? Generally you get all this:
  • A bunk bed and lock box 
  • Ensuite bathroom or clean, hot shower/toilet block down the hall
  • Shared kitchen with fridge/freezers, hobs, ovens, utensils etc
  • Limited wifi
  • Opportunity to partake in free events
  • Tourist spot advice and booking
  • A common area with sofas and possibly a TV
  • Experience of a lifetime
So, I've made out that living in a hostel is terrible. Well it's not that bad, if you want to see what it's really like, watch the 2005 film "Hostel". If you have any scary, funny or inspiring hostel experiences let me know in the comments!