Tuesday 21 June 2016

Hervey Bay and Fraser Island

Hervey Bay
Sunrise over Hervey Bay
After about a month, Joe and I left Hervey Bay to head further north. Hervey Bay (pronounced “Harvey” but we still preferred to call it “Hervey” in our British accents) is a growing town on the Fraser Coast, offering trips to Fraser Island, and is the best spot in the country for whale watching between July and November. Unfortunately we were a bit early for that, but we might stop by on our way back down the east coast.

As soon as we reached Hervey Bay, we went for a much needed walk on the beach and immediately fell in love with the place. The beach was quiet, the sea was calm and safe for swimming, the sand was soft and golden. We enjoyed watching the crabs scuttle across the beach, the occasional hawk patrolling, and even saw dolphins jumping out of the water just off shore to greet the sunset.

We stayed at each of the 4 council run beachfront caravan sites to take advantage of their short stay $15 backpacker rate. Each of these sites had clean toilets/showers and kitchens with hobs, bbqs fridge and microwave. The staff were friendly, and we liked them even more when they forgot to charge us for the wifi.

During our stay, Joe and I found a job delivering phone books, and actually found that we were really quite good at it. A lot better than we were at picking oranges! It was a short term casual role, only lasting as long as there were books left to deliver (about 3 weeks) – and many of the other candidates gave up after a couple of days. Many of the areas were rural, and delivering thousands of books is not so easy when there's a house every half mile. We did however find some awesome looking houses, and also a lot of microwaves used as mailboxes. The other areas were residential, and abundant with retirement villages. As one local elderly resident put it “Hervey Bay is God's waiting room – for the newly wed and the nearly dead”. We thought a lot of the place anyway, and so did it's residents.
Urangan Pier, Hervey Bay - 1km long!

Fraser Island
4WD tour bus
We ended our visit to the Fraser Coast with a trip to Fraser Island once we had earnt enough money from delivering phone books. Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world, and is only accessible by 4WD vehicles. Needless to say, a 4WD all-terrain bus looks a little weird, and I felt more like I was getting into a G4S secure van. When the sand is dry, vehicles can easily get stuck. Fraser Island has an amazing array of wildlife, and a high population of – pretty much every animal that can kill you. Snakes, spiders, sharks, and probably some crocs too. There are over 300 species of birds, and many plants and trees that don't grow anywhere else in Australia. Fraser is most famous for the dingoes. About 200-300 of them inhabit the island, and unlike the rest of Oz where they have bred with domestic dogs, Fraser dingoes are purebred, and it has been illegal for some years to take dogs onto the island. Visitors are reminded to watch their children and food supplies at all times, and it is an offence to harass or feed them. Sadly we didn't see any on our trip, but maybe that's for the better as I'd probably want to take them home with me.

Our trip started at the ferry port, before travelling through the rainforest until we reached 75 mile
75 mile beach
Lake Makenzie
beach. This beach is a highway as well as plane landing strip, which felt very bizarre. The surf looked good, but no surfers because if you go in that water you WILL be eaten by sharks. Not maybe. You WILL. We took a look at the Maheno shipwreck and learnt about it's history, viewed the coloured sands where the aboriginals traditionally performed their ceremonies, then went for a paddle in Eli Creek. We then headed to Lake Makenzie for lunch and a swim. Lake Makenzie is one of the 40 freshwater lakes on the island, and one of the largest in the world of it's kind that sits above sea level on top of the dunes. The water was unbelievably crystal clear and the sand was the whitest I've ever seen! The Eurong central station was the last destination on our trip, where we learnt about the railway built to transport timber before the island became a world heritage listed site. It was a fun and interesting day, improved only by slightly warmer weather, but then, it is winter ;). Now we're heading north to more tropical climates, waving goodbye to Hervey Bay in the mirror and hoping we will be back again sometime.
Maheno shipwreck
Eli Creek

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